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Prologue
Raised far from the ocean amid poverty and violence, Marcelo Luna fell into addiction and crime before discovering surfing as an unlikely path to redemption.
He could not swim as a teenager, yet through sheer determination and fearlessness, he became one of the world’s leading big-wave chargers at Nazaré. An intimate story of faith, perseverance and impossible transformation, Destemido follows a man who refused to let his past define him—and found freedom in the ocean.
“If it weren’t for surfing, I wouldn’t be here. Surfing got me off drugs. Surfing freed me. Surfing gave me a reason to live.”
Chapter I
Far from the ocean
São Bernardo do Campo, Brazil. Tower blocks, power lines and dirt pitches — and a boy who could not swim.
“I grew up far from the ocean and couldn’t even swim as a teenager, so how did I become a pro surfer?”
Chapter II
The neighbourhood
The streets that raised him, and the people who fight to live there.
“I know many rich people, many intellectual people, but I don’t know nobody better than favela people.”
“These people really fight to live, sometimes.”
Chapter III
Concrete waves
Before the ocean, there was the drainage channel. And everything else a kid reached for to escape.
“This is how you learn to surf in São Bernardo.”
“We used to skate here. We used to do a lot of bad shit here too.”
“Everything I had to escape my reality, I was using as a kid.”
Chapter IV
First water
He could not swim. He went in anyway.
“I think God put surfing here to save me. It’s the only explanation I have.”
Chapter V
The work
To survive a giant wave, you first learn to stay calm without air.
Chapter VI
Open water
From the edge of São Bernardo to the edge of Europe.
“I wanted to face the ultimate challenge: the great waves of Nazaré.”
Chapter VII
Nazaré
The biggest waves on earth. A 23-metre wave. A 38.2-second ride.
“One wave can change a guy’s life forever.”
Chapter VIII
What remains
Rescues in the floods. Classrooms and stages. A life given back.





“The titles, they will pass. But what really remains is what we do for society.”
Epilogue
The story inside the story
A film about his life, made inside his life.
“We’re making a story about my life, inside of my life.”
From the film
A first look
The making of · Brazil
Behind the scenes
To be continued
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